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Everything posted by odonov8

  1. Hello oskamt,   Can you please take a picture of the plug on the Reloop mixer and post it?
  2. First I would like to take this opportunity to publicly apologize to everyone who has had trouble with the mini Innofader on the Native Instruments Z2 mixer, DJ Tech DIF-1S, or Thud Rumble TR-1S mixers.   When we first did the mini Innofader production, even though we tested every single one for cut-out and did calibration, we had 2 issues that only became apparent once customers got a hold of the product: 1) The calibration itself had it's own accuracy issues due to the rubber stopper compression and bounce back during calibration. In other words, we didn’t have a precision production test for the cut-in point., and more importantly: 2) due to the shape of the sensor block and the way the block was cut, even with a "perfect" calibration, the mini Innofader had various issues such as large cut-in/cut-out overlap, bleeding, or very large dead space. On the picture below, the left side shows a first production mini Innofader, and the right side shows a current production mini Innofader which fixes these issues. Then the far right is a bottom view of the PC board. The current production mini Innofader is easily spotted by the circular rivets.     Now before getting into the what we’ve fixed, let’s get into some background on how the mini Innofader works. Here’s an illustration of what the mini Innofader sensor signal should look like, and how we use this signal to do calibration:     The firmware inside the mini Innofader sets the cut-in and cut-out points based on the sensor output at the endpoint of the fader. When the calibration button is pressed, the mini Innofader computes based on that point where the cut-in and cut-out points should be. So you can see from the drawing if the fader block is placed at a different position during calibration, the cut-in and cut-out points are shifted just as well. You can also see from this picture that since there is still a good signal before the endpoint, it is very easy to recalibrate and shift the endpoint in either direction. To reduce the dead space, the stem can be squeezed against the end since the rubber stopper has about 0.5mm of compression. To increase the dead space, the stem can simply be placed away from the endpoint when the calibration button is pressed. Now this is what happened on our first mini Innofader production:     The mini Innofader firmware only “knows” the cut points based on the actual signals.  Since the sensor signal has very little change near the endpoint, the calibration had a different effect and resulted in pretty large cut-in and cut-out dead spaces. So in order to maintain a good cut point, we had to “trick” the Innofader calibration by placing a resistor somewhere between 10 and 40 Mohms as shown below to shift the signal. Here’s an illustration of what we did:       If you go back to the very first picture, you’ll notice the original sensor was folded over in the middle. Variations in the folding plus edge cutting were resulting in sensor problems all of varying degrees. In some cases "tricking" the calibration worked fine. But in the case of the sensor used in the above illustration, even a single digital bit offset would shift the entire cut point by 0.5mm or more. Enough to either cause the fader to bleed on one end, or have a huge dead space on the other.     When was this issue fixed? Actually we fixed this issue in December of 2012. However, some of the older production parts are showing up in recent sales simply because retailers are moving older stock. Again your mixer may be fine with the first production parts - just our newest parts are much more stable and far less likely to have issues with the cut-in.   Will software calibration fix the problem? Software calibration will fix some issues but unfortunately will not fix this particular problem. The issue is there is not signal change between the end of the fader and the cut point so software calibration can only either make the fader bleed or have a large gap.   Can’t I just recalibrate the mini Innofader to fix the problem? Well yes to some extent. If you recalibrate the first production mini Innofader, it will definitely fix the bleeding. But most likely the cut-in point will be around 2.0mm and the cut-out around 1.5mm. In some cases the cut points are even slightly higher. It’s OK but not exactly ideal for scratching. You could do the “trick” like we did in production to pull in the cut-in and cut-out points, but then you’ll drive yourself nuts trying to get a good cut-in without bleeding just like we did.   So what do I do now? We’ve been working closely with the manufacturers using the mini Innofader and supplying them with new production mini Innofaders to replace mini Innofaders with cut point issues. All of these replacement parts use the latest hardware and are calibrated to have very close to a 1.0mm cut-in and 0.5mm cut-out. The manufacturers are in turn arranging replacements on a case by case basis through their customer support teams. Please the first thing to do is contact your mixer manufacturer for a RMA. Please don't just start recalibrating and trying to fix things on your own. All of the manufacturers using the mini Innofader are aware of this issue and are actively servicing it. We have direct contacts with support staff from all companies using the mini Innofader and can push to get your case resolved as needed. While we do not service these mini Innofaders directly, if you contact us at support@audioinnovate.com, we will help bring your case to the attention of the appropriate manufacturer support staff. You also have the option of upgrading to a full bodied Innofader PNP or Innofader Pro. We welcome your support of our product, but again in no way are you obligated to upgrade. If you contact us directly at Audio Innovate, we will do our best to accommodate you considering the issues with the first production mini Innofader.   So will my replacement mini Innofader really work? How about new production mini Innofaders? Yes! Since the new design has a much stronger sensor signal, it won’t have issues with the cut-in. Once calibrated in production, the operation is very solid. If you go back to the first picture, you can see that we've lengthened the sensor and used rivets to keep the signal strong all the way to the endpoints and even slightly beyond. This makes the mini Innofader operate pretty much exactly the way we designed it to work. Maybe at the most the cut point will shift by 0.1-0.2mm during operation. And even so, if you are really looking to get things perfect, it will be easy enough to recalibrate it without all of the weirdness that the original mini Innofader had. In addition, we now test the calibration of every single mini Innofader to make sure the cut-in is less than 1.2mm and cut-out is greater than 0.3mm. We have found that of all these parts, the overlap between the cut-in and cut-out is between 0.3mm and 0.5mm which is just enough to make the output stable without making the scratch feel sloppy.   How about the mini Innofader PNP? Won’t it have te same issues? Nope, the issues are also resolved here. The mini Innofader PNP uses the same upgraded sensor technology as the current production mini Innofader. The one major difference is the PNP version is upgraded to have a true resistive fader output so it can work as a drop-in replacement on a variety of mixers and controllers. Plus it allows you to adjust the left and right sides independently by 0.15mm increments. No need to do a full recalibration.   I recalibrated my mini Innofader and now the whole thing is out of whack If this happens, you'll have to keep recalibrating until the cut points start working on both sides. Again please don't get started with recalibration until you contact the manufacturer of the product using the mini Innofader. The mini Innofader calibration does a sensor level adjustment in addition to cut and middle point calibrations. If the sensor level is off, the calibration will readjust the sensor level, throw away the cut points, and go back to it's original output curve which has a reversing operation near the middle. We do this intentionally to make it clear to whoever is doing the calibration that recalibration is needed.   So hopefully you have found this explanation helpful. Happy scratching!
  3. odonov8


    I seem to recall that since there is no power going to the crossfader that the Innofader doesn't work as a direct plug-in. Even so, with the Innofader Pro, if you can get power wired to the fader, there should be a way to get this to work. If you have a voltage meter I can run you through tests for this.   The other question is does the fader slot have enough depth 45mm to fit the Innofader?
  4. Hello Ztul, thanks for the info. I'm just a bit surprised that the factory lube went bad. My experience with this usually is that overlubing with the Caig lube tends to have this effect and means you need to keep lubing to wash out the residue. The other thing is Caig also has a product called "Fader Lube" which is very misleading since it is only good for conductive plastic contacts and should NEVER be used on metal rails. If you use this product the rails will get sticky very quickly.   Elliot
  5. The below modification shows how to modify Vestax PMC mixers so you can get all 3 crossfader slots with Innofaders. You will need a soldering iron and solder sucker for this modification to remove and redo some soldering. Moderate proficiency in soldering is required.   Both the channel faders need to be Innofader Pros, but the crossfader can be either an Innofader Pro or an Innofader PNP.   To start, for each of the channel faders, you will need to remove the original fader from the PC board       Then you will need to remove the black 10 pin connector from the A&H Xone:22 cable and strip the wires. Reconnect the wires as shown below between the Vestax fader PC board and the non-VCA adapter board from the Innofader Pro. Note the red wire is twisted together with the 4th wire down from the red wire to connect to the Vestax fader PC board. All other wires are 1-1 connections.   On the non-VCA adapter board, make sure the small red switch labeled "ON" and "1" is set to the "1" position.   Do this step for both channel faders.     Now we'll show how the Innofader Pro or PNP crossfader is hooked up. First locate both 2 wire power cables from one of the Innofader Pros. One of these has 2.5mm spacing on the connector and the other has 2.0mm spacing on the connector.     Use the tool included with the Innofader to pull out the red wire from the 2.0mm connector.   (not shown) Do the same for both the red and black wires on one side of the 2.5mm connector so you have a spare 2.5mm connector you can use later.     Plug the free red wire into the 2.5mm connector as shown below:     Now for the crossfader:   Regardless of whether you have a PNP, you will only be pluging in the smaller 2.0mm connectors in this step. The 2.5mm connector is used later to plug into one of the channel faders.   If you are using a PNP, make sure that the red wire is plugged into the bottom pin of the "TEST" socket, and the black wire is plugged into the 2nd pin from the right on the Innojuster connector     If you are using an Innofader Pro for the crossfader, make sure the red wire is plugged into the bottom pin of J16 and the black wire is plugged into the top pin of J17:   Again remember these connections are for the crossfader.     Nor for both of the channel faders, plug in the 5 pin connector to the Vestax fader PC board and insulate the board using the pink tube as shown below           Now for the left channel fader, hook up the 2.0mm connector to J12 on the non-VCA adapter board.     Connect the free 2.0mm connector to J12 on the right channel fader. The pink insulating tube is removed for clarity.     Make sure 2 pink insulating tubes are used for each fader - one for the Vestax Fader PC board and one for the non-VCA adapter. So between the 2 faders you will use 4 insulating tubes.       Tuck everything neatly into the chassis and you are done!      
  6. The below shows a solder free Innofader Pro modification which will allow the Innofader Pro to work in the Technics SH-EX1200.   9/20/2015 EDIT: If you are using the Innofader Pro2, the mechanical modifications are the same, but you should be able to hook up your mixer with no wiring modifications. All of the adapter cables and boards are included with the Innofader Pro2. Please send us pics if you have done this installation!   The key to making this work is you will need to remove the faceplate. You will need to do this to remove the existing crossfader mounting plate and remount it with an Innofader Pro. Here's a picture of the faceplate already removed. This will help you locate the screw holes.     Now when you remove the original fader and fader mounting plate, you need to drill holes for mounting the Innofader. Try to make these holes about 5mm wide.     Now from the Innofader Pro kit, locate the following parts:   Innofader Pro main piece VCA adapter + VCA power PC board Denon / Rane Empath mounting cable 2 wire power cable with smaller 2mm spacing 2 pin connector 2 wire power cable with larger 2.5mm spacing 2 pin connector     Disconnect the original Technics 2mm spacing 2 wire power cable from the mixer and then connect the 2mm spacing 2 wire power cable from the Innofader Pro kit to the power connector as shown.       Remove the loose ends of the cables shown in the above step. Also remove the 2 pin connectors from the Innofader Pro 2.5mm spacing 2 wire power cable with the wider connector. Then place the wider 2.5mm spacing connectors on the ends of the cables as shown here. The left part of the cables shows the smaller 2.0mm end (which should still be plugged in). The right side shows the 2.5mm connectors. Note the wires from the 2.5mm spacing cable are no longer needed.       Use the technique shown below to reroute the cable as shown in the second picture. The 2mm wide connector is the one you removed from either the Technics or Innofader Pro 2mm spacing 2 wire power cable. Both connectors are identical so either one can be used.       Now this shows how the whole thing gets wired together.   Note a few things in the following picture: The 2.5mm connectors are plugged into J9 and J10. One end of the modified Denon / Rane Empath cable is plugged into J40. The other end plugs in where the original SH-EX1200 crossfader cable was plugged in.     For the crossfader bracket: Use washers on the crossfader mounting holes for stability. You can chop off one side of each washer so that the washer fits properly. Break off the small tabs on both sides of the crossfader for better fit.     The trick here is the Innofader is mounted on the top side of the chassis instead of the bottom. So the final step to make this happen is the stabilizing tabs on the SH-EX1200 need to be bent upwards.     Mount the Innofader to the bracket as shown. At this stage you can also make sure that the PC boards are all properly insulated with the pink insulating tubes included with the Innofader Pro       This is what the Innofader Pro will look like when it is mounted.  
  7. Too many issues:   The space is too small. Connectors are the wrong gender. The large VCA voltage means only the Innofader Pro would work if it actually fit.   So the only solution would be if we had a Pro version of the mini Innofader, and then did a wire adapter.
  8. If lubing only alleviates the problem momentarily, most likely there is some dirt buildup on the rail causing this problem.   Please do as we suggest - when you apply lube, also put high tension on the Innofader. This will help squeeze off excess dirt and work in the lube. Then once things start getting smoother, loosen the Innofader again and then things should start working again as normal.   Elliot
  9. Got it working for you by email communication :) Thanks for your patience!
  10.   Hello Lutz,   Sorry you are having this trouble. This seems like an unusual problem but if you're getting resistance in only one direction something seems not right. I can arrange with you to swap out your Innofader stem piece and this should fix the problem.   Elliot
  11. I think the best way to resolve this is:   Connect the adapter board to the crossfader. Connect the 3 wire mixer cable back where it was originally Clip off the end of the 3 wire red, black, red Innofader cable and solder it to the back side of the board where the 3 wire mixer cable is soldered. The main important thing is make sure the black wire is in the middle.   Wish I had an easier solution for this.   Elliot
  12.   Please take a picture of this so I can see what the issue is. I had a customer check this before and he told me the cables are long enough.   Elliot
  13. http://www.audioinnovate.com/index.php?iframe=InnoFader_faq.php   See the last item Q&A item which will show you a solution to reduce the popping somewhat.   Elliot
  14. Hello Technologear,   Thank you so much for spending the time to provide your feedback and further suggestions and assurance for DJs for doing this modification!   Elliot
  15. Note these modifications are only for the Innofader Pro. If you are using an Innofader Pro2, simply follow the installation as indicated in Figure 11 External Power Adapter Example.   This is similar to the Numark M1 forum instructions except the power supply needs to be wired as shown in the below PDF files. Hope this is helpful to everyone. Elliot
  16. This modification is for any Rane mixer using a Rane magnetic fader and a 4 pin cable connection. So far this includes the 61, 62, 64, and 68 models. The first step is to rewire the original Rane fader cable so that it can work with the Innofader Pro. First observe the original Rane cable and wires 1-4 indicated below. You may wish to mark the numbers on the wires directly to keep track of which wire is which. On the Rane cable itself, remove wires (3) and (4) and move over wire 2 to the last position. You can use the mini screwdriver included in the Innofader Pro Kit to do this. The pic after this one shows how wires can be removed. REMOVING WIRES: Use the small screwdriver to lift up the small tab holding in the wire. At the same time pull the wire out of the connector. The key is to lift the white tab just enough so the wire can slide out. As well as doing this for the Rane cable above, you need to do this to remove both the red and black wires on the small cable included with the Innofader Pro kit shown below. Save the connector itself for the next step Replace the blue wires (3) and (4) from the original Rane crossfader cable into the small white connector. Using the VCA Adapter Board: 1) Plug the modified Rane cable into J18. 2) Plug in the 2 jumpers included with the Innofader Pro into the 2 top pins and 2 bottom pins of J42. 3) Plug in the connector containing wires (3) and (4) indo the center 2 pins of J42. To finish the installation, please refer to the following: 1) standard VCA hookup for Innofader Pro. 2) Rane Calibration p. 1 3) Rane calibration p. 2
  17. We've discovered that these mixers require an external power hookup to the Innofader Pro. To do this first [u]power off the mixer, unplug the power,[/u] open the mixer, and locate the power supply cable inside the mixer. It is the yellow, black, and brown cable coming from the section inside the red circle. ***You will need the following tools to do this: Screwdriver (to open the mixer) Wire cutter and stripper (to splice the wires) Electrical tape A soldering iron + solder will make a more reliable connection but is optional. [img]https://www.innofader.com/images/Tascam%20XS-8/Tascam-XS-8-pic-2.jpg[/img] You will need to do the "VCA HOOKUP FOR INNOFADER PRO USING EXTERNAL MIXER POWER" as shown here: http://www.innofader.com/installations.php?id=6&pid=2. The only tricky part is for step "E", you will need to do the following: 1) Strip the yellow and black wires where the electrical tape is shown below. 2) Take the 3 wire cable (black, red, black) included with the Innofader Pro, cut off one end, and strip the 3 wires. 3) Connect red to yellow, black to black as shown. ***Make sure you use the red wire which connects to the red dot marked in step E above. Make sure the other black wire is either clipped off or covered in electrical tape. You can either twist the wires together, or for a better connection, solder them together. [img]https://www.innofader.com/images/Tascam%20XS-8/Tascam%20XS-8%20pic%201.jpg[/img]
  18. This is the only picture I have so far sorry. Does the fader you have look different or the same as the one in the picture? Elliot
  19. Punky - I'll guide you through this. Elliot
  20. The mixer has MIDI on all of the controls so if the Innofader can physically fit into one of these it will work. I'm not sure because I've never seen one of these. The VMS Innofader kit is only for the VMS2 and VMS4. Elliot
  21. Just in case you damaged your DJM-800, I found this forum post which locates all of the fuses on the DJM-800. Thanks to sidetrakd who posted this on speakerplans.com! I'm reposting here to make it easier for people to access because the speakerplans.com requires login to access. If you want to replace any of these fuses, you'll need the following equipment: 1) A multimeter (usually measures voltage, resistance, and current) 2) A soldering iron 3) a small strip of solder to remove the old fuse and connect the new one plus you will need to determine which fuse is defective and purchase the replacement fuse indicated below. To find the defective fuse, use the resistance setting on the multimeter. If the resistance measures below 10 ohms the fuse should be good, if not then it needs to be replaced. If your multimeter has a "beep" option, this is usually the easiest way to find a good fuse (makes a beep sound when you connect the test leads to both ends) or a defective fuse (makes no sound when you connect the test leads to both ends). Hope this helps you all, and please be careful! Elliot here is a list of SMD fuse markings and values they equate to: D = 0.25A E = 0.375A F = 0.5A X = 0.68A G = 0.75A H = 1.0A J = 1.25A K = 1.5A L = 1.75A N = 2.0A O = 2.5A P = 3.0A R = 3.5A S = 4.0A T = 5.0A
  22. Hello Toni, Sorry I haven't tried it and I don't have one for testing. You can do the LED test using the original Innofader. If the green light comes on, there's a good chance that it will work correctly. Elliot
  23. It's very tricky, sorry currently we do not have plans for this model. Elliot
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