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odonov8

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  1. Hello Con_quilla, Thank you so much for your repost. Sorry I just spent the last week porting over my forum to another host so access to the forum may have been sketchy for a while. Now it's all ported over so things should be working well now. I appreciate your attention to this! Elliot
  2. We now have a fix for the noise issue: https://www.innofader.com/installations.php?id=84&pid=21
  3. Hello Mitch, ? It's possible that touching the fader stem without the cap will cause this issue. You can reduce this effect by adding a small amount of tension to the fader which will ground the stem. Regardless, you should always operate the fader with the knob on the stem. ? Elliot
  4. Actually we will start working on this now. It's a big project, but a mixer I'd like to crack once and for all.   Elliot
  5. Yes it is definitely on our radar. I just need to get my hands on one of these!
  6. As you mentioned above, it is challenging but not impossible since you need to remove the front panel assembly to get the longer Innofader Pro2 into the unit. But it does fit and we have many customers happy with the results. I just want to clarify this at the end so customers are clear that it still works. Furthermore, the disassembly can be done using standard screwdrivers and no soldering is required like installations in some other mixers and controllers.   Elliot
  7. The PMC-55 is a doable installation but there are a few tricks to making this work properly. Thank you to DJ Nole Love for providing the pictures! Feel free to reach out to Nole Love directly if you are interested in doing this type of installation and want to have a professional repair tech do the job.   Since there isn't enough voltage on the crossfader connector itself to run the Innofader, you'll need to locate power inside the mixer and hook up wires. You'll find the "Power I/O Cable" inside the Innofader Pro2. Here's a picture including the Power I/O cable.   On one side of the Power I/O cable, clip off the connector and strip the wires. Locate the power supply inside the mixer according to the below picture. A red pen mark shows where you solder the red wire, and and black pen mark shows where to solder the black wire:     After you solder the wires, it will look something like the below picture. ***When you are done, please cover the wires with electrical tape to prevent them from short circuiting inside the mixer!   Now for the crossfader connector, simply hook up adapter 3. One end goes to the mixer crossfader connector and the other goes to the Innofader Pro2 crossfader connector:   Now for the mechanical fitting, use a drill to make two countersunk holes on the crossfader plate. These holes are for mounting the Innofader Pro2. They should be spaced 65mm apart center to center. When you are done, the fader plate will look something like this:   And before you hook up the Innofader itself, use washers to lower it to the proper height:
  8. Hello Sciencesky,   I did a tutorial already for this: http://www.audioinnovate.com/forums/index.php?/topic/203-innofader-pro2-rane-calibration/   I realized this was a major problem. So I made it top priority to do a super clear written tutorial shortly after you did your post.   Elliot
  9. Hey All,   Please follow this procedure for any mixer which has the Rane Magnetic Fader - TTM-56, TTM-57, Sixty-One, Sixty-two, or Sixty-eight. The below step by step procedure should make it very clear exactly how to go through this process.   NOTE: For all of the discussion below, "left" refers to channel 1 and "right" refers to channel 2 if the Innofader Pro2 is facing the front of the mixer when installed. If you install the Innofader Pro2 backwards, "left" refers to channel 2 and "right" refers to channel 1.   The first step is to get the Innofader Pro2 in a mode where it does the special adjustments particular to the Rane mixer. Start with mixer OFF, then do as follows:   1) Set |<--CUT, CURVE dials as shown with |<--CUT in the middle and CURVE all the way to the left. CUT-->| setting does not matter   2) Press the CALIBRATE button and keep holding it   3) While holding the CALIBRATE button down, turn the mixer on   4) Once the mixer has been on for at least 1 second, release the CALIBRATE button   Now at this point, the Innofader Pro2 is in Rane calibration mode. Please start out with the |<--CUT and CUT-->| dials turned all the way to the left and the CURVE dial set in the middle as shown here:   So let's start with the cut point adjustment because this is the most critical one. To make this easier, set the Contour to Fast. This will allow you to accurately determine where the sound cuts in.   Now let's start with the left side cut point adjustment. You'll notice that there's quite a big gap between the left end of the fader travel and the cut point. So simply turn the |<--CUT dial to the right until there is no gap. It's OK if there is a slight amount of bleeding since it is possible to fix this later. ***If there are multiple cuts on the left side, adjust the dial to fix the cut point that is closest to the center of the Innofader Pro2   A similar process happens for the right side cut point adjustment. You'll notice that there's quite a big gap between the right end of the fader travel and the cut point. So simply turn the CUT-->| dial to the right until there is no gap. It's OK if there is a slight amount of bleeding since it is possible to fix this later. ***If there are multiple cuts on the right side, adjust the dial to fix the cut point that is closest to the center of the Innofader Pro2.   Now if you do a lot of mixing you can do the following two steps for better performance. First set the mixer for a slow curve on the fader. This ensures that you can detect nuances in the sound level changes   Now try mixing left and right channels. If the left side volume comes in less quickly than the right side volume, you can fix this by turning the CURVE dial counter-clockwise until both sides are balanced   Now if the right side volume comes in less quickly than the left side volume, you can fix this by turning the CURVE dial clockwise until both sides are balanced   Now the final step is to press and release the calibration button. This will store the calibration that you just did.     Now here's the part where many of you get confused. You wonder why all of a sudden the cut points don't seem to be where they should, right? Well think about it...at this point the CURVE and CUT dials are in random positions related to the Rane calibration that have nothing to do with how you normally want to set these parameters, right? So then at this point, you should start by setting the CURVE and CUT dials to their default positions to give you a small gap on the fader plus allow you to use the curve control on the mixer. The one change I would recommend is increase the CURVE slightly on the Innofader Pro2...Rane mixers with the Innofader Pro2 installed have multiple steps on the cut even with the fader curve set to hard (sharp). You can go even sharper on the Innofader Pro2 curve but this will reduce the amount of curve control you have on the crossfader. You may or may not want this depending on how you use the crossfader.   You can make further adjustments to the |<--CUT and CUT-->| dials depending on your personal preference.   So anyways I hope this tutorial helps to clarify things for all of you!   Elliot Marx
  10. Hello Sciencesky,   I am working on a tutorial right now. Please give me a few days to complete this. Thanks!   - Elliot
  11. Hello All,   We've received several requests on how to open up the Innofader to do a deep cleaning. We recommend you only do this when absolutely necessary because excessive bending of tabs will cause them to break.   The tools you need are actually fairly basic - just locate an exacto knife and a needle nose pliers like the ones in the following picture:   Now use the exacto knife to bend each of the tabs up as shown here:   When you are done, the tabs should all be bent at about a 45 degree angle like this:   The next step is to fully straighten the tabs using a needle nose pliers by squeezing the pliers together. ***If you have difficulty straightening the tabs, it may help to try to bend them more with the exacto knife first. Remember to squeeze the pliers together because if you forcefully try to pull the tabs back, they will break!   When you are done straightening the tabs, the Innofader should look like this:   Then remove the case by lifting it off with the needle nose pliers. Lift on both sides until the case pops off   Once you pop off the case you should see the sensor board. Simply lift this off:   Now you have full access to the rails for cleaning as shown below. It will be much easier if you do not pull out the bobbin...but if you feel this is necessary, please see our stem replacement instructions here   Once you are done cleaning the fader, place the sensor board back into place. Align the connector with the pins as shown, and press into fit. Also for this part, you want to feel a distinct "click" once the sensor board is pushed all the way down.   Press the case back on. The tabs should pop all the way through. If for some reason they don't, this means that either the sensor board or rail assembly wasn't snapped properly into place. In this case, please remove the case and recheck these parts first, then press the case on again   The final step is to bend the 6 tabs back into place. You do this by pressing the tabs at an angle against a really hard surface. I used a vice grip here, but also a hard stone or the edge of a good tool will also work.   Once you have bent all of the tabs back into place, the Innofader main piece should then look like this:
  12. Hello All,   We've received several requests on how to swap out the fader stem on our full bodied Innofaders. Especially many of our customers find it difficult to open the fader and deal with all of those little parts. The below procedure shows the proper way to do this while causing minimal wear on the tabs.   The tools you need are actually fairly basic - just locate an exacto knife and a needle nose pliers like the ones in the following picture:   Now use the exacto knife to bend each of the tabs up as shown here:   When you are done, the tabs should all be bent at about a 45 degree angle like this:   The next step is to fully straighten the tabs using a needle nose pliers by squeezing the pliers together. ***If you have difficulty straightening the tabs, it may help to try to bend them more with the exacto knife first. Remember to squeeze the pliers together because if you forcefully try to pull the tabs back, they will break!   When you are done straightening the tabs, the Innofader should look like this:   Then remove the case by lifting it off with the needle nose pliers. Lift on both sides until the case pops off   Once you pop off the case you should see the sensor board. Simply lift this off:   At this point you should be able to lift the whole rail assembly out. ***Be extremely careful not to lose the small rubber piece circled below. It is actually a special conductive part that grounds out the stem and prevents interference with the sensor.   Once you've lifted the stem assembly out, pull the 2 brackets to each side so that you can slide the stem off. Continue to be mindful of the small rubber piece at the end because this piece is important for the proper operation of the Innofader.     Before placing the new bobbin on the rails, make sure to properly assemble the washer pieces that go inside. One of them is hard and U shaped. The U shape coats the rail. The other side is a small black rubber washer. Make sure the pointed end is sticking up...this is critical for making the tension adjustment feel and work properly.     Now place the washer on the bobbin assembly as shown here below. Carefully flip over the washer so that the small rubber piece doesn't fall out, and make sure the pointed part of the rubber washer is facing the tension adjust screw.   Now reassemble the bobbin. You want to place the bobbin on its side and make sure that the end cap with the loose rubber end piece is on the bottom. This makes it easy enough to assemble without worrying about losing this part   Now place the rail assembly back into place. Be mindful of the small rubber piece at the end of the rail. You should notice it rubbing against the case as you press down on the assembly ***Make sure that the rail assembly "clicks" into place.   Now place the sensor board back into place. Align the connector with the pins as shown, and press into fit. Also for this part, you want to feel a distinct "click" once the sensor board is pushed all the way down.   Press the case back on. The tabs should pop all the way through. If for some reason they don't, this means that either the sensor board or rail assembly wasn't snapped properly into place. In this case, please remove the case and recheck these parts first, then press the case on again   The final step is to bend the 6 tabs back into place. You do this by pressing the tabs at an angle against a really hard surface. I used a vice grip here, but also a hard stone or the edge of a good tool will also work.   Once you have bent all of the tabs back into place, the Innofader main piece should then look like this:
  13. Hey Sciencesky,   Sorry to hear about this...I'm not quite sure what to tell you but we really do try to make it as easy as possible to install. We can't always control what the manufacturer supplies.   Elliot
  14. Hello All,   The Innofader PNP has an issue where an internal auto-switch is not compatible with the DJM 900 Nexus so needs to be disabled. This auto switch selects between balanaced and unbalanced curve control. Since the following mod will disable the switch, please set the Innofader PNP curve in the middle for proper operation. Otherwise one side will have a sharper curve than the other when you turn the curve dial.   To do this, simply remove the yellow wire from the side of the cable which plugs into the Innofader PNP main piece.   First lift up the wire with the mini screwdriver and pull out the wire at the same time.     When you are done it should look like this:     Don't forget when you are done to put electrical tape on the loose end so it doesn't short circuit inside the mixer.  
  15. Please email me support@audioinnovate.com. Thanks.
  16. Hello Wesoel,   Sorry for the trouble. I do my best to respond to every customer email I receive. Please write to me again if this isn't resolved.   Elliot
  17. Turn the fader 180 degrees. This should fix the problem.
  18. It seems many customers are looking for S2s and S4s with Innofaders. But then the questions come in...How can I afford it? How do I install these parts if I don't know how to solder?   Well to get things started, I've taken it upon myself to offer both the S2 and S4 with pre-installed Innofaders. The S2 has 3 mini Innofader PNP S faders while the S4 has an Innobender crossfader and 4 mini Innofader PNP S channel faders. I've signed each product myself on the bottom so you know for sure where it's coming from! I've had many questions about these so let's start with the pics of these bad boys and I'll answer the questions as we go along.   Q. Are these brand new?   A. As you can see from the pics, I've essentially taken brand new controllers and simply installed the Innofader parts. Even the original tape is still on the jog wheels. The Innofaders are also all brand new.     Q. What comes inside the box?   A. Inside the box are all of the unopened accessories, unused serial numbers, and stickers. At the top of the box are neatly packed Innofaders with all of the unused stickers and accessories still there. In addition, each box has the original faders inside should you decide later you'd like to put the original parts back in and put the Innos into another product.     Q. How do I adjust the mini Innofader if it's already soldered to the board?   A. Fortunately we thought about this. A year ago when I first attempted this I had a mad scientist setup with wires floating from the main board so I could calibrate parts while they were hooked up. Noting the madness of my ways, I figured this process would be much easier if the calibration buttons were accessible after the parts were installed. The soldered wires add a small amount of height to the parts which made the soldering a bit tricky, but this allowed me to place the buttons wherever they needed to be without shorting to anything.   P.S. The front panel headphone + mic control boards make things a bit tricky on the S2 and S4. On the S2, you have to wiggle the faders around this board to get them out but they do come out without the need to mess with this board. On the S4, you need to remove the remove the phone jack nut and the other 3 control knobs, then push in all of the knobs, remove one screw. Then once you pull the plastic cassis over the headphone jack, you can rotate out the entire board out of place.     Q. How about the warranty?   A. Well the main reason I started with these products is I've seen from working with NI on getting the mini Innofader in the Z2 that they have an extremely comprehensive QC system in place.  So the likelihood of having warranty issues with their products is extremely small compared to most other manufacturers. But since I've already opened and modified the product, I'll take it upon myself to do a one year warranty on my end.     Q. How much is this all going to cost me?   A. These products have only $50 added cost for each mini Innofader and $100 added cost for each Innobender. So at today's price 8/24/2014 the S2 is $649US and the S4 is $1099US. I can ship either by USPS domestically or get good discounted rates with DHL or Fed Ex for international shipments. Shipping is probably in the $25 to $80 range depending on location.     Q. What if I already have a controller and want to do the soldering upgrade?   A. As a customer, please feel free to ask for my assistance. I am happy to do free installations for any DJ who purchases Innofader parts from me and sends me their mixer or controller for updating. This goes for not just the S2 or S4, but for any controller or mixer that we have on our compatibility chart. If you don't want to send me the product, I can assist you by finding a technician locally who may be able to help you with the installation.     Q. Why doesn't NI just sell S2s and S4s with Innofaders already installed like they do with the Z2?   A. Haha it's not my place to tell NI how to sell and market their products. I've already put the bug in their ear and even sent them an S2 with 3 mini Innofaders for evaluation.  If this is something you'd like to see definitely let them know!
  19. Hello All, I want to take this opportunity to thank you for being the first ones to opt into our mailing list and being loyal customers! Hopefully you'll find these emails helpful but if for any reason you want to opt out, just write to mailinglist@audioinnovate.com and put "Opt Out" in the title. As you may know already from our Facebook posts, our new mini Innofader PNPs are shipping worldwide to all of the retailers next Tuesday. We're shipping by Priority mail or International Express so figure the retailers should be ready to ship around May 5th or 6th. As part of the new product launch, we've made many updates on our compatibility chart: https://www.innofader.com/compatible.php. But you may notice that there's a lot of "tbd" slots in the chart. In many cases I've done the installation but couldn't determine the correct height because the production caps weren't available yet. In other cases, customers have already taken some measurements so I have a clear idea they will work but not sure of the exact height fitting or configuration. If you or anyone does these installations and has new info, definitely let me know! Also as you probably know already, I'm always adding proucts to this chart. So if you find a new product that isn't there, we're game for helping you figure out if it can be Innofaded! The new minis combined with our long bodied PNP, Pro, and Innobender means there's a pretty good chance at least one of our Innos will work. One thing that's still bugging me though is we see the huge need for the mini Innofader PNP S - that's the solder version - but customers in many cases are holding back because it seems to be too much trouble. The result is DJs either just tolerate the original faders or throw away perfectly good equipment just because of bad faders. The latter especially bothers me. I've been over to China and Taiwan and see in some cases pollution so bad you can barely see the midday sun on a cloudless day. New technology is cool but making better use of what we already have will go a long way in helping us clean things up. So anyways, there are a few resources here to help you get started: 1) Scott David <repairdjgear@gmail.com> already does repair on all sorts of gear including controllers and can help with this. Located in Orange County, CA 2) Virtual Sounds Technology <sales@vstservice.com> has been doing Innofader installations for a while and should be able to help you. Located in Pasadena, CA 3) Hollywood DJ in LA has their own on staff techs who can do the installation for you. 4) Many of our distributors outside the US are setting up with technicians who can help with the installation. So far we have the Phillippines, Japan, Brazil, and Germany on board with this. We can refer you to these people to help you. 5) If you are located in the US, there's a good chance we can refer you to a local technician who can do the job. Problem so far is most of these do repairs for all sorts of huge brands so we're a bit small potatoes to them. Write to us and we can refer you. And let these people know we referred you! 6) I'm always happy to work something out with you if you send me your controller and want me to Innofade it for you! --  Best Regards, Elliot Marx Owner, Audio Innovate NEW Mobile number Tel: +1-808-628-0532 Fax: +1-866-893-6874 Skype: odonov8 Web: www.innofader.com  
  20. On this forum we will make announcements on a periodic basis.   If you want to receive these announcements by email, please send an email to us at mailinglist@audioinnovate.com.   If you want to be able to reply to posts here, please register on our forum first.
  21. 3/18/2016 edit: Now includes both Innofader Pro2 and Innofader Pro instructions:   INNOFADER PRO2 INSTRUCTIONS:     First locate the 2 wire cable in the Innofader Pro2 box. One wire is red and the other is black. Take one end of the cable, clip off the 2 pin connector, and strip the wire about 1/16", just enough so you can solder it. Solder the red wire to pin 8 of IC501...this is the +15V DC supply for the fader. Solder the black wire to pin 5 of IC501...this is the GND or ground reference for the DC supply.     Now locate adapter (13) which works for the SH-DJ1200. You will need to peel off the back so you can solder wires to the adapter. Please reorder the crossfader wires and solder to the connector as indicated in the below picture. Make sure pins 4 and 5 are shorted together, and don't forget to put the label back on when you are done!     Once you have completed the installation, it should look like this:       Special thanks to Ash Mukerjea for providing the following pictures:                             INNOFADER PRO INSTRUCTIONS:   Special thanks to Audey Bautista for contributing the images! Do the wiring as shown here. You will need a soldering iron because this mixer doesn't have any power cables available in the crossfader section. At the same time, it's easiest to just connect the crossfader cables by soldering them to the non-VCA adapter board. Don't worry about the 2 unconnected wires because they are not used for the SH-DJ1200. As far as the mechanical mounting, first drill two holes in the crossfader plate. Use a 5mm drill bit and spacing the holes 65mm apart with the holes symmetrical about the center. When you use the drill bit, only push the bit down until you get a 3mm diameter hole on the bottom. This way the Innofader Pro can easily mount using the included screws. Now when mounting the Innofader place the bracket above the mixer body rather than below so the Innofader stem has enough height. NOTE: We have customer feedback that the Innofader in the below picture will operate in reverse. Please install the Innofader with the label facing the rear of the unit instead of the front of the unit to make the Innofader operate normally. When you're all done it looks like this:  
  22. Thanks for posting and sorry for the delay getting back to you.   I suspect that this can plug into J17 but maybe the connector housing needs to be removed. Can you check this?
  23. Hello oskamt,   Can you please take a picture of the plug on the Reloop mixer and post it?
  24. First I would like to take this opportunity to publicly apologize to everyone who has had trouble with the mini Innofader on the Native Instruments Z2 mixer, DJ Tech DIF-1S, or Thud Rumble TR-1S mixers.   When we first did the mini Innofader production, even though we tested every single one for cut-out and did calibration, we had 2 issues that only became apparent once customers got a hold of the product: 1) The calibration itself had it's own accuracy issues due to the rubber stopper compression and bounce back during calibration. In other words, we didn’t have a precision production test for the cut-in point., and more importantly: 2) due to the shape of the sensor block and the way the block was cut, even with a "perfect" calibration, the mini Innofader had various issues such as large cut-in/cut-out overlap, bleeding, or very large dead space. On the picture below, the left side shows a first production mini Innofader, and the right side shows a current production mini Innofader which fixes these issues. Then the far right is a bottom view of the PC board. The current production mini Innofader is easily spotted by the circular rivets.     Now before getting into the what we’ve fixed, let’s get into some background on how the mini Innofader works. Here’s an illustration of what the mini Innofader sensor signal should look like, and how we use this signal to do calibration:     The firmware inside the mini Innofader sets the cut-in and cut-out points based on the sensor output at the endpoint of the fader. When the calibration button is pressed, the mini Innofader computes based on that point where the cut-in and cut-out points should be. So you can see from the drawing if the fader block is placed at a different position during calibration, the cut-in and cut-out points are shifted just as well. You can also see from this picture that since there is still a good signal before the endpoint, it is very easy to recalibrate and shift the endpoint in either direction. To reduce the dead space, the stem can be squeezed against the end since the rubber stopper has about 0.5mm of compression. To increase the dead space, the stem can simply be placed away from the endpoint when the calibration button is pressed. Now this is what happened on our first mini Innofader production:     The mini Innofader firmware only “knows” the cut points based on the actual signals.  Since the sensor signal has very little change near the endpoint, the calibration had a different effect and resulted in pretty large cut-in and cut-out dead spaces. So in order to maintain a good cut point, we had to “trick” the Innofader calibration by placing a resistor somewhere between 10 and 40 Mohms as shown below to shift the signal. Here’s an illustration of what we did:       If you go back to the very first picture, you’ll notice the original sensor was folded over in the middle. Variations in the folding plus edge cutting were resulting in sensor problems all of varying degrees. In some cases "tricking" the calibration worked fine. But in the case of the sensor used in the above illustration, even a single digital bit offset would shift the entire cut point by 0.5mm or more. Enough to either cause the fader to bleed on one end, or have a huge dead space on the other.     When was this issue fixed? Actually we fixed this issue in December of 2012. However, some of the older production parts are showing up in recent sales simply because retailers are moving older stock. Again your mixer may be fine with the first production parts - just our newest parts are much more stable and far less likely to have issues with the cut-in.   Will software calibration fix the problem? Software calibration will fix some issues but unfortunately will not fix this particular problem. The issue is there is not signal change between the end of the fader and the cut point so software calibration can only either make the fader bleed or have a large gap.   Can’t I just recalibrate the mini Innofader to fix the problem? Well yes to some extent. If you recalibrate the first production mini Innofader, it will definitely fix the bleeding. But most likely the cut-in point will be around 2.0mm and the cut-out around 1.5mm. In some cases the cut points are even slightly higher. It’s OK but not exactly ideal for scratching. You could do the “trick” like we did in production to pull in the cut-in and cut-out points, but then you’ll drive yourself nuts trying to get a good cut-in without bleeding just like we did.   So what do I do now? We’ve been working closely with the manufacturers using the mini Innofader and supplying them with new production mini Innofaders to replace mini Innofaders with cut point issues. All of these replacement parts use the latest hardware and are calibrated to have very close to a 1.0mm cut-in and 0.5mm cut-out. The manufacturers are in turn arranging replacements on a case by case basis through their customer support teams. Please the first thing to do is contact your mixer manufacturer for a RMA. Please don't just start recalibrating and trying to fix things on your own. All of the manufacturers using the mini Innofader are aware of this issue and are actively servicing it. We have direct contacts with support staff from all companies using the mini Innofader and can push to get your case resolved as needed. While we do not service these mini Innofaders directly, if you contact us at support@audioinnovate.com, we will help bring your case to the attention of the appropriate manufacturer support staff. You also have the option of upgrading to a full bodied Innofader PNP or Innofader Pro. We welcome your support of our product, but again in no way are you obligated to upgrade. If you contact us directly at Audio Innovate, we will do our best to accommodate you considering the issues with the first production mini Innofader.   So will my replacement mini Innofader really work? How about new production mini Innofaders? Yes! Since the new design has a much stronger sensor signal, it won’t have issues with the cut-in. Once calibrated in production, the operation is very solid. If you go back to the first picture, you can see that we've lengthened the sensor and used rivets to keep the signal strong all the way to the endpoints and even slightly beyond. This makes the mini Innofader operate pretty much exactly the way we designed it to work. Maybe at the most the cut point will shift by 0.1-0.2mm during operation. And even so, if you are really looking to get things perfect, it will be easy enough to recalibrate it without all of the weirdness that the original mini Innofader had. In addition, we now test the calibration of every single mini Innofader to make sure the cut-in is less than 1.2mm and cut-out is greater than 0.3mm. We have found that of all these parts, the overlap between the cut-in and cut-out is between 0.3mm and 0.5mm which is just enough to make the output stable without making the scratch feel sloppy.   How about the mini Innofader PNP? Won’t it have te same issues? Nope, the issues are also resolved here. The mini Innofader PNP uses the same upgraded sensor technology as the current production mini Innofader. The one major difference is the PNP version is upgraded to have a true resistive fader output so it can work as a drop-in replacement on a variety of mixers and controllers. Plus it allows you to adjust the left and right sides independently by 0.15mm increments. No need to do a full recalibration.   I recalibrated my mini Innofader and now the whole thing is out of whack If this happens, you'll have to keep recalibrating until the cut points start working on both sides. Again please don't get started with recalibration until you contact the manufacturer of the product using the mini Innofader. The mini Innofader calibration does a sensor level adjustment in addition to cut and middle point calibrations. If the sensor level is off, the calibration will readjust the sensor level, throw away the cut points, and go back to it's original output curve which has a reversing operation near the middle. We do this intentionally to make it clear to whoever is doing the calibration that recalibration is needed.   So hopefully you have found this explanation helpful. Happy scratching!
  25. odonov8

    umx-7

    I seem to recall that since there is no power going to the crossfader that the Innofader doesn't work as a direct plug-in. Even so, with the Innofader Pro, if you can get power wired to the fader, there should be a way to get this to work. If you have a voltage meter I can run you through tests for this.   The other question is does the fader slot have enough depth 45mm to fit the Innofader?
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