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odonov8

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  1. Hello Con_quilla, Thank you so much for your repost. Sorry I just spent the last week porting over my forum to another host so access to the forum may have been sketchy for a while. Now it's all ported over so things should be working well now. I appreciate your attention to this! Elliot
  2. We now have a fix for the noise issue: https://www.innofader.com/installations.php?id=84&pid=21
  3. Hello Mitch, ? It's possible that touching the fader stem without the cap will cause this issue. You can reduce this effect by adding a small amount of tension to the fader which will ground the stem. Regardless, you should always operate the fader with the knob on the stem. ? Elliot
  4. Actually we will start working on this now. It's a big project, but a mixer I'd like to crack once and for all.   Elliot
  5. Yes it is definitely on our radar. I just need to get my hands on one of these!
  6. As you mentioned above, it is challenging but not impossible since you need to remove the front panel assembly to get the longer Innofader Pro2 into the unit. But it does fit and we have many customers happy with the results. I just want to clarify this at the end so customers are clear that it still works. Furthermore, the disassembly can be done using standard screwdrivers and no soldering is required like installations in some other mixers and controllers.   Elliot
  7. The PMC-55 is a doable installation but there are a few tricks to making this work properly. Thank you to DJ Nole Love for providing the pictures! Feel free to reach out to Nole Love directly if you are interested in doing this type of installation and want to have a professional repair tech do the job.   Since there isn't enough voltage on the crossfader connector itself to run the Innofader, you'll need to locate power inside the mixer and hook up wires. You'll find the "Power I/O Cable" inside the Innofader Pro2. Here's a picture including the Power I/O cable.   On one side of the Power I/O cable, clip off the connector and strip the wires. Locate the power supply inside the mixer according to the below picture. A red pen mark shows where you solder the red wire, and and black pen mark shows where to solder the black wire:     After you solder the wires, it will look something like the below picture. ***When you are done, please cover the wires with electrical tape to prevent them from short circuiting inside the mixer!   Now for the crossfader connector, simply hook up adapter 3. One end goes to the mixer crossfader connector and the other goes to the Innofader Pro2 crossfader connector:   Now for the mechanical fitting, use a drill to make two countersunk holes on the crossfader plate. These holes are for mounting the Innofader Pro2. They should be spaced 65mm apart center to center. When you are done, the fader plate will look something like this:   And before you hook up the Innofader itself, use washers to lower it to the proper height:
  8. Hello Sciencesky,   I did a tutorial already for this: http://www.audioinnovate.com/forums/index.php?/topic/203-innofader-pro2-rane-calibration/   I realized this was a major problem. So I made it top priority to do a super clear written tutorial shortly after you did your post.   Elliot
  9. Hey All,   Please follow this procedure for any mixer which has the Rane Magnetic Fader - TTM-56, TTM-57, Sixty-One, Sixty-two, or Sixty-eight. The below step by step procedure should make it very clear exactly how to go through this process.   NOTE: For all of the discussion below, "left" refers to channel 1 and "right" refers to channel 2 if the Innofader Pro2 is facing the front of the mixer when installed. If you install the Innofader Pro2 backwards, "left" refers to channel 2 and "right" refers to channel 1.   The first step is to get the Innofader Pro2 in a mode where it does the special adjustments particular to the Rane mixer. Start with mixer OFF, then do as follows:   1) Set |<--CUT, CURVE dials as shown with |<--CUT in the middle and CURVE all the way to the left. CUT-->| setting does not matter   2) Press the CALIBRATE button and keep holding it   3) While holding the CALIBRATE button down, turn the mixer on   4) Once the mixer has been on for at least 1 second, release the CALIBRATE button   Now at this point, the Innofader Pro2 is in Rane calibration mode. Please start out with the |<--CUT and CUT-->| dials turned all the way to the left and the CURVE dial set in the middle as shown here:   So let's start with the cut point adjustment because this is the most critical one. To make this easier, set the Contour to Fast. This will allow you to accurately determine where the sound cuts in.   Now let's start with the left side cut point adjustment. You'll notice that there's quite a big gap between the left end of the fader travel and the cut point. So simply turn the |<--CUT dial to the right until there is no gap. It's OK if there is a slight amount of bleeding since it is possible to fix this later. ***If there are multiple cuts on the left side, adjust the dial to fix the cut point that is closest to the center of the Innofader Pro2   A similar process happens for the right side cut point adjustment. You'll notice that there's quite a big gap between the right end of the fader travel and the cut point. So simply turn the CUT-->| dial to the right until there is no gap. It's OK if there is a slight amount of bleeding since it is possible to fix this later. ***If there are multiple cuts on the right side, adjust the dial to fix the cut point that is closest to the center of the Innofader Pro2.   Now if you do a lot of mixing you can do the following two steps for better performance. First set the mixer for a slow curve on the fader. This ensures that you can detect nuances in the sound level changes   Now try mixing left and right channels. If the left side volume comes in less quickly than the right side volume, you can fix this by turning the CURVE dial counter-clockwise until both sides are balanced   Now if the right side volume comes in less quickly than the left side volume, you can fix this by turning the CURVE dial clockwise until both sides are balanced   Now the final step is to press and release the calibration button. This will store the calibration that you just did.     Now here's the part where many of you get confused. You wonder why all of a sudden the cut points don't seem to be where they should, right? Well think about it...at this point the CURVE and CUT dials are in random positions related to the Rane calibration that have nothing to do with how you normally want to set these parameters, right? So then at this point, you should start by setting the CURVE and CUT dials to their default positions to give you a small gap on the fader plus allow you to use the curve control on the mixer. The one change I would recommend is increase the CURVE slightly on the Innofader Pro2...Rane mixers with the Innofader Pro2 installed have multiple steps on the cut even with the fader curve set to hard (sharp). You can go even sharper on the Innofader Pro2 curve but this will reduce the amount of curve control you have on the crossfader. You may or may not want this depending on how you use the crossfader.   You can make further adjustments to the |<--CUT and CUT-->| dials depending on your personal preference.   So anyways I hope this tutorial helps to clarify things for all of you!   Elliot Marx
  10. Hello Sciencesky,   I am working on a tutorial right now. Please give me a few days to complete this. Thanks!   - Elliot
  11. Hello All,   We've received several requests on how to open up the Innofader to do a deep cleaning. We recommend you only do this when absolutely necessary because excessive bending of tabs will cause them to break.   The tools you need are actually fairly basic - just locate an exacto knife and a needle nose pliers like the ones in the following picture:   Now use the exacto knife to bend each of the tabs up as shown here:   When you are done, the tabs should all be bent at about a 45 degree angle like this:   The next step is to fully straighten the tabs using a needle nose pliers by squeezing the pliers together. ***If you have difficulty straightening the tabs, it may help to try to bend them more with the exacto knife first. Remember to squeeze the pliers together because if you forcefully try to pull the tabs back, they will break!   When you are done straightening the tabs, the Innofader should look like this:   Then remove the case by lifting it off with the needle nose pliers. Lift on both sides until the case pops off   Once you pop off the case you should see the sensor board. Simply lift this off:   Now you have full access to the rails for cleaning as shown below. It will be much easier if you do not pull out the bobbin...but if you feel this is necessary, please see our stem replacement instructions here   Once you are done cleaning the fader, place the sensor board back into place. Align the connector with the pins as shown, and press into fit. Also for this part, you want to feel a distinct "click" once the sensor board is pushed all the way down.   Press the case back on. The tabs should pop all the way through. If for some reason they don't, this means that either the sensor board or rail assembly wasn't snapped properly into place. In this case, please remove the case and recheck these parts first, then press the case on again   The final step is to bend the 6 tabs back into place. You do this by pressing the tabs at an angle against a really hard surface. I used a vice grip here, but also a hard stone or the edge of a good tool will also work.   Once you have bent all of the tabs back into place, the Innofader main piece should then look like this:
  12. Hello All,   We've received several requests on how to swap out the fader stem on our full bodied Innofaders. Especially many of our customers find it difficult to open the fader and deal with all of those little parts. The below procedure shows the proper way to do this while causing minimal wear on the tabs.   The tools you need are actually fairly basic - just locate an exacto knife and a needle nose pliers like the ones in the following picture:   Now use the exacto knife to bend each of the tabs up as shown here:   When you are done, the tabs should all be bent at about a 45 degree angle like this:   The next step is to fully straighten the tabs using a needle nose pliers by squeezing the pliers together. ***If you have difficulty straightening the tabs, it may help to try to bend them more with the exacto knife first. Remember to squeeze the pliers together because if you forcefully try to pull the tabs back, they will break!   When you are done straightening the tabs, the Innofader should look like this:   Then remove the case by lifting it off with the needle nose pliers. Lift on both sides until the case pops off   Once you pop off the case you should see the sensor board. Simply lift this off:   At this point you should be able to lift the whole rail assembly out. ***Be extremely careful not to lose the small rubber piece circled below. It is actually a special conductive part that grounds out the stem and prevents interference with the sensor.   Once you've lifted the stem assembly out, pull the 2 brackets to each side so that you can slide the stem off. Continue to be mindful of the small rubber piece at the end because this piece is important for the proper operation of the Innofader.     Before placing the new bobbin on the rails, make sure to properly assemble the washer pieces that go inside. One of them is hard and U shaped. The U shape coats the rail. The other side is a small black rubber washer. Make sure the pointed end is sticking up...this is critical for making the tension adjustment feel and work properly.     Now place the washer on the bobbin assembly as shown here below. Carefully flip over the washer so that the small rubber piece doesn't fall out, and make sure the pointed part of the rubber washer is facing the tension adjust screw.   Now reassemble the bobbin. You want to place the bobbin on its side and make sure that the end cap with the loose rubber end piece is on the bottom. This makes it easy enough to assemble without worrying about losing this part   Now place the rail assembly back into place. Be mindful of the small rubber piece at the end of the rail. You should notice it rubbing against the case as you press down on the assembly ***Make sure that the rail assembly "clicks" into place.   Now place the sensor board back into place. Align the connector with the pins as shown, and press into fit. Also for this part, you want to feel a distinct "click" once the sensor board is pushed all the way down.   Press the case back on. The tabs should pop all the way through. If for some reason they don't, this means that either the sensor board or rail assembly wasn't snapped properly into place. In this case, please remove the case and recheck these parts first, then press the case on again   The final step is to bend the 6 tabs back into place. You do this by pressing the tabs at an angle against a really hard surface. I used a vice grip here, but also a hard stone or the edge of a good tool will also work.   Once you have bent all of the tabs back into place, the Innofader main piece should then look like this:
  13. Hey Sciencesky,   Sorry to hear about this...I'm not quite sure what to tell you but we really do try to make it as easy as possible to install. We can't always control what the manufacturer supplies.   Elliot
  14. Hello All,   The Innofader PNP has an issue where an internal auto-switch is not compatible with the DJM 900 Nexus so needs to be disabled. This auto switch selects between balanaced and unbalanced curve control. Since the following mod will disable the switch, please set the Innofader PNP curve in the middle for proper operation. Otherwise one side will have a sharper curve than the other when you turn the curve dial.   To do this, simply remove the yellow wire from the side of the cable which plugs into the Innofader PNP main piece.   First lift up the wire with the mini screwdriver and pull out the wire at the same time.     When you are done it should look like this:     Don't forget when you are done to put electrical tape on the loose end so it doesn't short circuit inside the mixer.  
  15. Please email me support@audioinnovate.com. Thanks.
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