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odonov8

Member Since 20 Nov 2006
Offline Last Active Oct 20 2017 10:19 PM
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Topics I've Started

Innofader Pro2 Rane Calibration

19 October 2017 - 01:14 AM

Hey All,

 

Please follow this procedure for any mixer which has the Rane Magnetic Fader - TTM-56, TTM-57, Sixty-One, Sixty-two, or Sixty-eight. The below step by step procedure should make it very clear exactly how to go through this process.

 

NOTE: For all of the discussion below, "left" refers to channel 1 and "right" refers to channel 2 if the Innofader Pro2 is facing the front of the mixer when installed. If you install the Innofader Pro2 backwards, "left" refers to channel 2 and "right" refers to channel 1.

 

The first step is to get the Innofader Pro2 in a mode where it does the special adjustments particular to the Rane mixer. Start with mixer OFF, then do as follows:

 

1) Set |<--CUT, CURVE dials as shown with |<--CUT in the middle and CURVE all the way to the left.
CUT-->| setting does not matter

Calib1.png

 

2) Press the CALIBRATE button and keep holding it

Calib2.png

 

3) While holding the CALIBRATE button down, turn the mixer on

Calib3.png

 

4) Once the mixer has been on for at least 1 second, release the CALIBRATE button

Calib4.png

 

Now at this point, the Innofader Pro2 is in Rane calibration mode. Please start out with the |<--CUT and CUT-->| dials turned all the way to the left and the CURVE dial set in the middle as shown here:

Calib5.png

 

So let's start with the cut point adjustment because this is the most critical one. To make this easier, set the Contour to Fast. This will allow you to accurately determine where the sound cuts in.

Sharp_mixer.png

 

Now let's start with the left side cut point adjustment. You'll notice that there's quite a big gap between the left end of the fader travel and the cut point. So simply turn the |<--CUT dial to the right until there is no gap. It's OK if there is a slight amount of bleeding since it is possible to fix this later. ***If there are multiple cuts on the left side, adjust the dial to fix the cut point that is closest to the center of the Innofader Pro2

Calib6.png

 

A similar process happens for the right side cut point adjustment. You'll notice that there's quite a big gap between the right end of the fader travel and the cut point. So simply turn the CUT-->| dial to the right until there is no gap. It's OK if there is a slight amount of bleeding since it is possible to fix this later. ***If there are multiple cuts on the right side, adjust the dial to fix the cut point that is closest to the center of the Innofader Pro2.

Calib7.png

 

Now if you do a lot of mixing you can do the following two steps for better performance. First set the mixer for a slow curve on the fader. This ensures that you can detect nuances in the sound level changes

Soft_mixer.png

 

Now try mixing left and right channels. If the left side volume comes in less quickly than the right side volume, you can fix this by turning the CURVE dial counter-clockwise until both sides are balanced

Calib8.png

 

Now if the right side volume comes in less quickly than the left side volume, you can fix this by turning the CURVE dial clockwise until both sides are balanced

Calib9.png

 

Now the final step is to press and release the calibration button. This will store the calibration that you just did.

Calib10.png

 

Calib11.png

 

Now here's the part where many of you get confused. You wonder why all of a sudden the cut points don't seem to be where they should, right? Well think about it...at this point the CURVE and CUT dials are in random positions related to the Rane calibration that have nothing to do with how you normally want to set these parameters, right? So then at this point, you should start by setting the CURVE and CUT dials to their default positions to give you a small gap on the fader plus allow you to use the curve control on the mixer. The one change I would recommend is increase the CURVE slightly on the Innofader Pro2...Rane mixers with the Innofader Pro2 installed have multiple steps on the cut even with the fader curve set to hard (sharp). You can go even sharper on the Innofader Pro2 curve but this will reduce the amount of curve control you have on the crossfader. You may or may not want this depending on how you use the crossfader.

Calib12.png

 

You can make further adjustments to the |<--CUT and CUT-->| dials depending on your personal preference.

 

So anyways I hope this tutorial helps to clarify things for all of you!

 

Elliot Marx


Opening up the Innofader for Deep Cleaning

04 September 2017 - 03:15 AM

Hello All,

 

We've received several requests on how to open up the Innofader to do a deep cleaning. We recommend you only do this when absolutely necessary because excessive bending of tabs will cause them to break.

 

The tools you need are actually fairly basic - just locate an exacto knife and a needle nose pliers like the ones in the following picture:

Stem_Replacement_Tools_4.jpg

 

Now use the exacto knife to bend each of the tabs up as shown here:

exacto.jpg

 

When you are done, the tabs should all be bent at about a 45 degree angle like this:

post_exacto_3.jpg

 

The next step is to fully straighten the tabs using a needle nose pliers by squeezing the pliers together. ***If you have difficulty straightening the tabs, it may help to try to bend them more with the exacto knife first. Remember to squeeze the pliers together because if you forcefully try to pull the tabs back, they will break!

straighten_tabs.jpg

 

When you are done straightening the tabs, the Innofader should look like this:

tabs_are_straight.jpg

 

Then remove the case by lifting it off with the needle nose pliers. Lift on both sides until the case pops off

lift_case.jpg

 

Once you pop off the case you should see the sensor board. Simply lift this off:

sensor_off.jpg

 

Now you have full access to the rails for cleaning as shown below. It will be much easier if you do not pull out the bobbin...but if you feel this is necessary, please see our stem replacement instructions here

case_is_opened.jpg

 

Once you are done cleaning the fader, place the sensor board back into place. Align the connector with the pins as shown, and press into fit. Also for this part, you want to feel a distinct "click" once the sensor board is pushed all the way down.

sensor_on.jpg

 

Press the case back on. The tabs should pop all the way through. If for some reason they don't, this means that either the sensor board or rail assembly wasn't snapped properly into place. In this case, please remove the case and recheck these parts first, then press the case on again

case_on.jpg

 

The final step is to bend the 6 tabs back into place. You do this by pressing the tabs at an angle against a really hard surface. I used a vice grip here, but also a hard stone or the edge of a good tool will also work.

tabs_bend_back.jpg

 

Once you have bent all of the tabs back into place, the Innofader main piece should then look like this:

reassembled.jpg


Replacing the Stem on a Full Bodied Innofader

28 August 2017 - 01:36 AM

Hello All,

 

We've received several requests on how to swap out the fader stem on our full bodied Innofaders. Especially many of our customers find it difficult to open the fader and deal with all of those little parts. The below procedure shows the proper way to do this while causing minimal wear on the tabs.

 

The tools you need are actually fairly basic - just locate an exacto knife and a needle nose pliers like the ones in the following picture:

Stem_Replacement_Tools_4.jpg

 

Now use the exacto knife to bend each of the tabs up as shown here:

exacto.jpg

 

When you are done, the tabs should all be bent at about a 45 degree angle like this:

post_exacto_3.jpg

 

The next step is to fully straighten the tabs using a needle nose pliers by squeezing the pliers together. ***If you have difficulty straightening the tabs, it may help to try to bend them more with the exacto knife first. Remember to squeeze the pliers together because if you forcefully try to pull the tabs back, they will break!

straighten_tabs.jpg

 

When you are done straightening the tabs, the Innofader should look like this:

tabs_are_straight.jpg

 

Then remove the case by lifting it off with the needle nose pliers. Lift on both sides until the case pops off

lift_case.jpg

 

Once you pop off the case you should see the sensor board. Simply lift this off:

sensor_off.jpg

 

At this point you should be able to lift the whole rail assembly out. ***Be extremely careful not to lose the small rubber piece circled below. It is actually a special conductive part that grounds out the stem and prevents interference with the sensor.

bobbin_off.jpg

 

Once you've lifted the stem assembly out, pull the 2 brackets to each side so that you can slide the stem off. Continue to be mindful of the small rubber piece at the end because this piece is important for the proper operation of the Innofader.

 

bobbin_remove.jpg

 

Before placing the new bobbin on the rails, make sure to properly assemble the washer pieces that go inside. One of them is hard and U shaped. The U shape coats the rail. The other side is a small black rubber washer. Make sure the pointed end is sticking up...this is critical for making the tension adjustment feel and work properly.

 

bobbin_assemble_1.jpg

 

Now place the washer on the bobbin assembly as shown here below. Carefully flip over the washer so that the small rubber piece doesn't fall out, and make sure the pointed part of the rubber washer is facing the tension adjust screw.

bobbin_assemble_2.jpg

 

Now reassemble the bobbin. You want to place the bobbin on its side and make sure that the end cap with the loose rubber end piece is on the bottom. This makes it easy enough to assemble without worrying about losing this part

bobbin_reassemble.jpg

 

Now place the rail assembly back into place. Be mindful of the small rubber piece at the end of the rail. You should notice it rubbing against the case as you press down on the assembly ***Make sure that the rail assembly "clicks" into place.

bobbin_on.jpg

 

Now place the sensor board back into place. Align the connector with the pins as shown, and press into fit. Also for this part, you want to feel a distinct "click" once the sensor board is pushed all the way down.

sensor_on.jpg

 

Press the case back on. The tabs should pop all the way through. If for some reason they don't, this means that either the sensor board or rail assembly wasn't snapped properly into place. In this case, please remove the case and recheck these parts first, then press the case on again

case_on.jpg

 

The final step is to bend the 6 tabs back into place. You do this by pressing the tabs at an angle against a really hard surface. I used a vice grip here, but also a hard stone or the edge of a good tool will also work.

tabs_bend_back.jpg

 

Once you have bent all of the tabs back into place, the Innofader main piece should then look like this:

reassembled.jpg